Baltic Sea Scandinavia Voyages

Holland – Schweden – Denmark



“We’re caught in a rat trap,” grumbles our Belgian neighbor Marja. The recent general weather situation delights the North Sea with strong winds. Actually, the wind direction from west to northwest is excellent, but the waves generated by this wind force are too high. Sailing in the washing machine for at least 12 hours – to Cuxhaven – is an extensive material and stomach test.

We now spend 11 days on Norderney. Throughout our sailing career, no bad weather situation has kept us in the marina such a long time. Sailors who are low on time and heading for ambitious destinations sail “at all costs” through the turbulent North Sea floods.



At Brunsbüttel, a huge tanker changed to a new pilot. The vessel is almost at a standstill. So we can sail safely in front of its bow and take some photos.



It’s raining cats and dogs, a good sailing wind has not been predicted either. After leaving the harbor a nice breeze blows out of the right direction, very soon it becomes a perfect sailing wind. This is only to be found in a yacht or holiday brochure. ATHENE flies at top speed to Ystadt, a small town in southern Sweden.

After a good four hours, the same trade as yesterday follows, wind for Sun. But today we have more luck, of 54 nm we can sail 44 nm. In the marina, we find a free berth. Welcome to Sweden.



Visibility on the way to Simrishamn is poor, hazy, but a gentle sailing wind from the southwest. Surprisingly, the wind keeps steady all the way. 28 miles more are noted in the logbook. But there is another entry: Fishing. The nautical chart shows a break edge in our current position. The sea floor rises from 30 to 10 m water depth in a short distance, ideal for cod. I attach a cod lure to the fishing line – the advertising speaks of a cod miracle – and throw the fish imitation overboard. The lure glides to the bottom, the line jerks and is suddenly tensioned. Done. Fish caught. As soon as we enter Simrishamn, it is filleted, fried and a meal is celebrated.



In front of the entrance of the Admiralty Church stands a wooden figure holding out an open hand to the visitor asking for a donation. Mats Rosenbom was a resident of Karlskrona and served in the Navy. As a result of illness, he was released and his family became impoverished. In 1717, he was given a free position by the town as a demolition master, for which he was allowed to collect alms from rich citizens on New Year’s Day. After a dispute with the respected sculptor Kolbe, Rosenbom froze to death in front of the church. Out of repentance, Kolbe carved a box for sacrifices to the poor in the shape of Rosenbom. Each donor has to lift the hat of the figure to throw in his coins.


Trinity Church, Karlskrona

Karlskrona was built in 1680 as a naval town on the island of Trossö. Charles XI needed a strong base for his fleet in a protected ice-free port. The last point could also be interesting for us this year. Today, 33 islands belong to the city area, a world cultural heritage of marine history. Built scattered on islands, Karlskrona has a special flair. Every part of the city has its own charm.


Ystad – Malmö

So that’s what it’s like to sail on a summer’s day! Leaving the marina early, the sea is as smooth as a mirror, the sky light-blue. Deep in the east, the sun slowly develops to its full beauty. The air is summerly and smells like the sea, dreamlike. At noon we arrive at Falsterbo, a canal that cuts through the Falster peninsula. In front of a canal bridge, we have to wait half an hour until the bridge opens. On the horizon, you can see the Sundbridge, which connects Sweden with Denmark.



At the beginning of the 16th century, Malmö was the second largest city in Northern Europe. Many buildings bear witness to this period. The cobblestone square Lilla Torg with its surrounding half-timbered houses and restaurants, whose tables and chairs are outside, is a popular meeting place for (probably) locals and tourists alike. The St.Petri kyrka, built in the 14th century, is considered the most beautiful example of Baltic brick Gothic. It is the oldest building in the city and houses limestone paintings from the end of the 15th century in a chapel.



Only 16 nm of sailing distance between Malmö and Copenhagen, a stone’s throw to the Danish neighbor. With thirteen marinas, the city offers a rich choice. In Svanemöllehavnen in the north of the city, we make our landfall.

During the night a rain front approaches, force six wind blows from the northeast and dense rain floats over the ship. The hatches have to be closed tightly, the water even penetrates through small ventilation gaps. Fortunately, we rarely have to do this. Next morning the sky is overcast. The rain would have made Noah furious while painting his ark.


Beer Country

Early in the morning, we leave Gedser with a light north wind. Due to the experiences of the past days, it seems wiser to sail westward in the morning, so far westerly winds arose in the afternoon. At the end of our journey, a beautiful summer day awaits us. We are absolutely not sad but enjoy the beautiful weather. Shortly before Burgtiefe an open motorboat runs close to us on the opposite course, the female crew member sits topless in the cockpit, so each of us must see her, and she has … Gosh!
On Fehmarn, there are plenty of free berths, considerably more than a few weeks ago. We moor in a “box” with a balcony facing southwest. Beate: “I would love to have a beer now”. The proposal also finds enthusiasm with me, yes, we are back to Beer Country.