Sailing Long Distances

Finisterre

Many of the pilgrims who went to Santiago de Compostela in the medieval times were not satisfied with getting to the tomb of the apostle only. According to a brochure, pilgrims of the bygone days had the desire for taking a peek of the end of the world at the Cape of Finisterre once in their lives and return home afterward. The Catholic Church never officially approved the last part of the ‘Camino de Santiago’. This spot was too pagan, too far away from the Pope’s strict doctrine that every pilgrimage must end at the tomb of the apostle in Compostela. The thought of eternity must lead to heaven, not to the open sea, to the “mare tenebrosum” with its stories of spirits and monsters, sunken cities and possible paradise.
We took a bus from Muros to Finisterre, 50 km away. Just behind the
lighthouse of Louro, the view opened up to the Costa da Morte, as they call it on Gallego, the coast of death, which stretches from La Coruna via Finisterre to Muros. The chronicles narrate of wild rocks, unpredictable currents, and sudden wind changes. The seaman’s cemeteries in the towns along the shore tell of countless shipwrecks.
On 13 November 2002, the biggest accident to date occurred when the … Read More